A Guide to Comexim and Anna Pardal Alterations

Hello Everyone,

Today’s blog has been long in the making and will be fairly substantial, but if you have purchased or want to purchase either an Anna Pardal or Comexim bra, grab a beverage of choice and push onward into “TL;DR” territory. Anna from Anna Pardal and I collaborated on a guide to the alterations offered by the aforementioned brands as well as on what fit tweaks they hope to make in future collections. This post represents a rare occurrence in the lingerie world: a manufacturer who actually *wants* to hear what you have to say about their products, even if it is negative.

To anyone just tuning in who has missed the copious reviews and outpourings of undying affection on my part, I highly encourage you to go to Erica’s Reviews and check out Comexim and Anna Pardal. However, if you are just too titillated by my promises of a long, technical post, here’s a little background information. Comexim is a Polish bra company focusing on deeper cups and narrow wires, which are ideal for women with close set breasts needing more projection. Anna Pardal partnered with them to create a separate line of breathtakingly beautiful pieces in high quality laces and fabrics. They use the same sewing team and cup shapes, but the lines follow different aesthetic trajectories with unique fabrics.

Unlike most bra companies, Comexim and Anna Pardal work with customers to improve the fit of their existing designs through an alterations process. However, performing frequent, large quantity custom alterations creates additional overhead, and the design team hopes to receive general feedback on both their classic 3-section padded cup shape and their vertical seamed padded half-cup shape. In particular, the brand hopes feedback on the recently added higher cup sizes and larger bands will reduce fit issues by developing a pattern which better captures the nuances of this market.

Since the classic shape fits me perfectly, I never explored the alterations options, but Anna was kind enough to send me two samples from her new collection, both modified with different common alterations requests. What alterations can Comexim and Anna Pardal perform? I’ll let Anna herself answer this: 

Our alterations have become very popular, so we’re looking at a few different ways of making them more accessible and easier to understand.

The most common alterations

  • Reduced/raised center gore height
  • Reduced cup height
  • Moving straps inward
  • Wider fabric on sides of bra (below armpit)
  • More hook and eye closures on band

It can be hard to know exactly what alterations you might need! So, in the spirit of collaboration, we’re putting together this informative post about common alterations and how they might help — and we’re also asking for your feedback on re-designing our “standard” patterns to better fit different size ranges.

For example, we’re considering making the following changes:

For all H+ cups:

  • Add 1-2 extra hook/eye closures
  • Move straps in by 2 cm
  • Reduce the cup height

For all 28 to 32 bands:

  • Reduce center gore by 1-2 cm

For all 38+ bands:

  • Raise the center gore by 1-2 cm

Bras that meet more than one of these criteria would have all the alterations for that size included, so that a 28 J would have extra hook/eye closures, closer-set straps, lower cup height, and a lower center gore.

Do you think this would be helpful for those customers who aren’t as familiar with the ins and outs of bra design, but who are desperate for a perfect fit? I’d love to hear your feedback!

Within the last nine months, I have worked frequently with women on identifying which alterations would best suit their shape, and I have general feedback on whom may benefit from the various fit tweaks.

Raised Gore: People with softer tissue which falls toward the center of the classic shape may want a raised gore alteration to keep tissue contained and minimize the plunging shape of the neckline. This alteration works well in conjunction with a reduced cup to create more of a balcony shape. However, there is a downside to raising the gore. Comexim and Anna Pardal do not use extremely firm underwires like Panache, and women with heavy, fuller center tissue find the center gore soft tacks or angles outward away from the body.

Reduced Gore: As I mentioned above, firm/dense/full, close-set breasts can push the underwire away from the body in a raised gore and in some cases the classic gore height. In this case, lowering the gore height can improve the fit by reducing how high the underwire will sit on the chest. Not to mention, it’s also a nice alteration if you want more cleavage or a lower neckline.

Reduced Cup Height: Because the shape of the Comexim classic shape is so rounded and tall, women with either less upper fullness or a vertically shorter breast run out of tissue before the cup ends. While the alteration is beneficial in all sizes, I find the recent expansion to HH+ sizes frequently benefit from a lowered cup height. Additionally, I think the higher cup sizes would benefit from 1-2” of material removed from the portion of cup adjacent to the strap. The rest of the cup may fit perfectly, but the extra space near the strap can wrinkle or fold inward on itself. Finally, when they reduce the cup height, they only remove the upper-section of the cup, and it is done proportionally with less material removed from the center and more from the top nearest the strap. Because the center gore keeps the majority of the material and depth, I think it can prevent the altered bra from being too small in the cup in most cases.

Straps Moved Inward: For people with narrow or sloped shoulders, this alteration not only improves the fit but also prevents strap slippage. With higher cup sizes, the alteration proves beneficial as well because the tendency to scale upward in cup is also to scale outward with the straps. Moving them closer to the neck can also alleviate some of the gaping issues with the top of the cup.

Wider Fabric on the Arm: One of the complaints I field regarding the fit of the bras is the lower coverage on the side of the cup/arm. People with looser skin or who have a little extra tissue in the region feel the lack of material height allows spillage near the top. Women in 40+ bands have also been a fan of more material on the side for added smoothing.

More Hook-and-Eye Closures: I have ranted on nearly every Cleo bra review about how much I loathe two hook-and-eye closures. Allowing customers the freedom to select the number of hooks which suits them is fantastic.

Phew! Are you still with me? Let’s move on to show some of these alterations in action. Note: I will be reviewing these bras in separate posts, and as such, I am only interested in showcasing the alterations and briefly commenting on how it changed the fit.

Comexim Arabella 32HH — Our Control aka the Classic 3-Section Cup

 Arabella

  • Unstretched Band — 24”
  • Stretched Band — 31”
  • Gore Height — 3.25”
  • Vertical Depth* — 9”
  • Horizontal Depth** — 11.75”
  • Height*** — 7”
  • Width**** — 6”

* Taken by measuring the interior of the cup height and tracing the curve from underwire to the top of the cup.

** Taken by measuring the interior of the cup width and tracing the curve from underwire to center gore.

*** Taken by measuring directly from underwire to top of the cup.

**** Taken by measuring directly from underwire to center gore.

None of these measurements include the underwire itself, and all are approximate.

 Anna Pardal Beatrix 32HH — Raised Gore/ Raised Arm

 Beatrix

  • Unstretched Band — 24”
  • Stretched Band — 30”
  • Gore Height — 3.5”
  • Vertical Depth — 9”
  • Horizontal Depth — 11.75”
  • Height — 7.25”
  • Width — 6.25”

 Felicity 32HH — Lowered Gore/Reduced Cup/Straps Moved in 2cm

 Felicity

  • Unstretched Band — 24”
  • Stretched Band — 31”
  • Gore Height — 2.75”
  • Vertical Depth — 8.33”
  • Horizontal Depth — 11.75”
  • Height — 6.75”
  • Width — 6”

The next couple of photos show few comparisons so you can see the differences reflected by the measurements.

 

Felicity overlaid on Arabella:  Not the lowered gore and reduced cup height.
Felicity overlaid on Arabella: Not the lowered gore and reduced cup height.
Reduced Gore of Felicity with Raised Gore of Beatrix
Reduced Gore of Felicity with Raised Gore of Beatrix
A slightly different shot to compare cup heights.
A slightly different shot to compare cup heights
The difference 2cm makes in strap placement
The difference 2cm makes in strap placement
Higher gore with slightly higher cup height compared to the classic shape
Higher gore with slightly higher cup height compared to the classic shape
Higher arm on the side
Higher arm on the side

Observations:

  •  When the Felicity and Arabella (or Beatrix) are overlaid, the straps of Arabella end where the straps of Felicity/Beatrix start.
  • It’s difficult to see in the photos, but the reduced cup height of Felicity is more of an angled triangular cut when compared against Arabella. I mentioned this earlier in the post and hope you can see how little fabric is removed from the center in comparison to what is removed from the straps.
  • Beatrix, despite having a higher arm, did not rub or chafe and felt very secure overall.

A quick preview of fit:

Beatrix_4 Felicity_4

Based on these popular alterations, Anna Pardal is hoping to develop a new style in addition to the half-cup, classic cup, and upcoming longline which takes into account people’s personal preferences regardless of what size they need. Additionally, both companies are interested in any feedback you can provide on their products, especially if you have tried some of their styles in higher cups or bands as these are areas where they want to continue to improve.

Please take advantage of this opportunity.  A manufacturer actually wants to hear your feedback, both positive and negative, and will use this to help improve their products. How often have we all discussed the way manufacturers are dismissive of customer needs/wants? Now we have a chance to weigh in with a company that genuinely cares. So, please comment. We all want to hear what you have to say.

Erica

P.S.  For more information or for those who prefer to listen/watch then read, check out the video below:

A Guide to Comexim and Anna Pardal Alterations
Erica
Erica is a lover all things lingerie and is passionate about helping people find the bra which fits and flatters. Side passions include reading, writing, hiking, dairy-free food, walking her Jack Russell terrorists, and dying her hair everything from black to red.
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83 thoughts on “A Guide to Comexim and Anna Pardal Alterations

  • April 10, 2015 at 6:59 pm
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    Those look so awesome! My main problem with narrow wires in Cleo bras has been tissue spilling out the sides near the top of the cup. A higher side might alleviate that issue. They are offering more hooks and eyes? Be still my beating heart! It may be worth a try to order from them with some customizations, since I’ve gained weight and need bigger bras.

    I can’t find anything about the half-cup designs on Anna Pardal’s website, where are they shown?

    Reply
    • Erica
      April 11, 2015 at 11:53 am
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      Hi Lee! The half-cups are in discussion now for some of their laces, but nothing has been finalized yet. However, you can see what the shape will be by looking at the original Comexim.pl website. Off the top of my head, Joy, Burgundy, and Daphne are all variations. They do run about a cup size small though!

      The only thing that would have me hesitate to recommend this brand to you is that the wires are narrower than what Cleo has. The higher side may contain tissue better, but I worry the underwires themselves would rest on breast tissue depending on your shape. However, the half-cups are a bit wider although also shallower, hence the cup size issue.

      Reply
      • April 13, 2015 at 6:02 pm
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        I’ll definitely wait until the half-cups come out, then, since I’m pretty shallow. It seems a better bet.

        Reply
  • April 10, 2015 at 7:29 pm
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    From an augmented breast perspective, Comexim is popular because the ability to customize the cup shape around the shape of the implants. In my size range (28H+) I definitely agree with your posted suggestions. I would love to be able to order and just request a size, no alterations needed. I would love a long line in my size. I would love a half cup as well, especially with a super narrow gore!
    I love the willingness to add hooks but also keep the wings and sides of the cups minimal, summer clothing choices really require this.
    Finally, I love that these designers are reaching out for improvements! It is amazing to know that they are listening, working to improve, and continuing to make their larger size range available to us.

    Reply
    • Erica
      April 11, 2015 at 11:49 am
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      Thanks for all the feedback!! The most comfortable band on a normal bra I found was my Charlotte from Parfait with its four hooks, so I know I would be interested in customizing how many hooks are on my bras too.

      Reply
  • April 10, 2015 at 8:04 pm
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    I’ve been experimenting with Comexim recently and have been experiencing the apparently very common cup height problem. I first tried a 70J plunge and it was so wrong it was almost funny. I also tried a 70HH half cup and, while better, it didn’t fit me like a half cup at all. Straps in my size are almost always too wide set for me, so moving the straps in sounds great, too.

    I personally don’t think I’d benefit from a lowered gore with my soft breast tissue, but if all these changes were made, at the very worst I’d only have to request one alteration instead of two. 🙂

    Reply
    • Erica
      April 11, 2015 at 11:55 am
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      Thanks for weighing in with your thoughts! Your statement about only needing to request one alteration is definitely what the company is hoping to achieve here. Instead of people needing extensive customizations, the bra either fits fine as is or requires a small tweak. Hopefully with all of this feedback, they can continue to improve their designs. Not to mention, you mention softer tissue. If they did an alternative style, a raised gore option may complement their existing styles, and in that case, you may not need any alterations!

      Reply
  • April 10, 2015 at 11:12 pm
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    I hope that they change the thongs as well. Right now they’re sewn exactly in the middle and that cuts in. I hope they’d be sewn 2/3 back like the EM ones.

    I also feel like the cups are way too high. Id like to buy more Comexim bras but I don’t want to have to custom order something that might my got.

    Reply
    • Erica
      April 11, 2015 at 11:57 am
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      Hi Sharon! It’s hard to sway me from Natori and b.tempt’d undies, so thanks for providing feedback on the thong issue. Cup height definitely seems to be a sticking point for most women from what I have seen.

      Reply
  • April 11, 2015 at 9:07 am
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    OMG – what public service Erica! I love this post and what Comexim / Anna P are doing. IMO, the alterations are very sound from a technical perspective – as a person who sews most garments and who has also sewn numerous bras (which didn’t fit well enough, IMO – in full disclosure :-)) I especially think that the extra hook/eyes and side bust height alterations are excellent for those with projected, narrow shape in larger cup sizes and smaller back sizes. Because of my degree of projection, those extra hooks give ballast to the cantilevering I require. They’re not optional – esp. as I’ve been experiencing myofacial pain in my body over the past couple of years.

    Also, have to say that those bras are perfect for you!

    I haven’t ordered from Comexim because I think the wires would be too narrow for me. I’ve just ordered direct from Avocado (waiting on my package – 2 bras) and I’m desperately hoping that those wires won’t be too narrow – and I’m pretty narrow but these Polish brands are serious. The width of Cleo and Empreinte is perfect for me. Ewa M just doesn’t work (among other things, not firm enough in any of the materials and too narrow in wires).

    What I’d ask for is a longline – but also cups that aren’t lined or padded in any way. I like soft cups (esp. lace) A firm cup isn’t my thing – adds an extra layer of bulk I don’t need.

    Reply
    • Erica
      April 11, 2015 at 12:03 pm
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      Thanks, K-Line! Glad to hear you enjoyed the post. 🙂 Like you, I prefer a wider band with extra hooks. I actually tried their new longline (no review yet), and it has six hooks plus this amazing structure which keeps it from rolling. Wow, is that comfy!! The half-cup is a little wider than the classic shape, but Comexim is definitely on the narrow side. You may not like them quite as much for this reason. The point about a longline cut-and-sew is well taken. I’d like to see the brand offer more for this customer in the future. I really like my unpadded bras, but they have been dwindling since I fell in love with a line which mostly offers padded cups.

      Reply
  • April 11, 2015 at 11:05 am
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    Comexim has come the closest to being my perfect fit! However, as a 65M, the classic model doesn’t work for me at all! I made an order recently with reduced cup and lowered gore. I feel as though the cups were still too tall! I was hoping I would be able to ask for even further reduced cups for my next order! I do think it would be a great idea to make the reduced cup the norm as it seems to be a common issue in these sizes! I also prefer a reduced gore but I do understand that isn’t necessarily for everyone. I would hope you could still request a raised or lowered gore if needed. I also need the straps moved in. However this is a problem for me in all bras, so I am not sure if my opinion should count on that! The only alteration I disagree with is the wider fabric on the sides! I am petite with really high set boobs. In my size, the fabric is already almost too wide. I wouldn’t want any more there or it would rub in my armpit! I also worry it would show through all my tops. I would hope that maybe there would still be some room for minor alterations if needed. Maybe an easier way to request them as well! Two things I would love to see are longlines and half cups in my size! I really appreciate the desire to get feedback and make the products even better! 🙂

    Reply
    • Erica
      April 11, 2015 at 12:07 pm
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      Hi Bee! I think if we were to take a tally from women in higher cups, almost everyone wants those cups reduced. I didn’t think I really needed a reduced cup, but I do like the fit of the Felicity for this reason. The low gore is nice too, but I would also like a raised or regular gore for work since I move so much. I mentioned this in another comment, but I think what Comexim and Anna Pardal are hoping to achieve is to create a bra which fits most people well so that only minor tweaks are needed in the future. The more technical the request, the more room for error. If the bra fits otherwise but people need a raised or lowered gore, that’s way more manageable than “Move the straps 2cm. Reduced the cup height by 1/3 normal. Make gore 2.75″, Add an extra hook in the back, and raise the arm.”

      With regard to longlines, I tried one which has a half-cup, and I’m not as much of a fan of the half-cup because the shape is too shallow for me (and I suspect you as well). However, the band is PHENOMENAL! If they swapped in the classic shape, I would buy most of my bras in longline form. It did not roll despite all the moving and then sometimes sitting I do, and it was comfortable all day. My back felt so supported!

      Reply
  • April 11, 2015 at 12:11 pm
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    This is a great post! I LOVE Comexim bras but i’ve never tried Anna Pardal.

    Reply
    • Erica
      April 16, 2015 at 11:04 am
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      If you love Comexim, then you will definitely love AP too. Check out their Instagram page for pictures of their upcoming styles. 🙂

      Reply
  • April 11, 2015 at 6:57 pm
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    I just tried my first Comexim bra, and desperately hope I can return it or sell it. I thought I was still a 34HH, but I apparently am back to a 32J. I’d been advised to buy a 75L. Well, the back was massive on me. Plus, there was breast tissue at the sides, so the cup didn’t work either. Normally a too small cup leads to quadroboob at the front, not tissue at the side, so I don’t get that. All in all it was an epic fail. I don’t understand the narrow/wide wire thing, so not sure if it’s too narrow for me or what, but the fit is truly awful. I’ll stick to Bravissimo unpadded plunges from on, as I just don’t have €40 to waste on a bra that doesn’t fit. 🙁

    Reply
    • April 13, 2015 at 1:52 pm
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      Lynn, I can not leave you with this problem. We Return the bra and give me your dimensions in cm and preferably take a picture and show me the problem. Maybe I can adjust the size for you :). He writes with a translator. Anna. Comexim.

      Reply
      • April 14, 2015 at 11:31 am
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        Aww, thanks. That is very nice of you. I wrote to your email a few days ago, but did not receive word back. It seems I need a smaller band size and a bigger cup size. So most likely a 70K.

        Reply
      • April 15, 2015 at 8:41 am
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        Also, the cups are just as high as any other bra – higher than my Bravissimo plunges in fact. So it seems like the reduced cup customisation was not adhered to. I email you a few days ago, but have not heard back.

        Reply
        • April 15, 2015 at 2:48 pm
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          I do not think I saw your email. Write to me again and sign LYNN with Sophisticated :). Anna.

          Reply
    • Erica
      April 16, 2015 at 11:08 am
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      Hi Lynn! I want to comment on the narrow/wide wire aspect so you have a little information for the future. Narrow wires are great for women with little to no side breast tissue while wider wires work for the opposite. The easiest way to see if a wire is too narrow for you is to check the side and see if there is breast tissue either mashed down by the underwire or stuck behind it outside of the cup. Sometimes, you just need to scoop it inside the cup, but if the tissue tries to migrate back under the wire, it’s too narrow. Similarly, wires that are too wide will have way too much space between where the wire ends and where breast tissue begins. If you look it most of my Curvy Kate reviews, you can see an example of wires that are too wide. It may help you decide if Comexim/Anna Pardal will be right for you, even with alterations and the correct size. Hope that helps! 🙂

      Reply
      • April 16, 2015 at 2:25 pm
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        I have no visual spatial abilities at all. 🙂 So the best way for me to understand is to compare brands I have tried. Do you know if Bravissimo plunges are wide or narrow wires? I know Curvy Kate bras don’t fit me properly. Thanks!

        Reply
  • April 11, 2015 at 11:43 pm
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    I’d like padded straps in L+ cups and a tad bit wider straps, too, too all the mentioned alterations. I would like to see the half cup style be developed for those sizes too.

    Reply
  • April 12, 2015 at 9:09 am
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    I’m not surprised that reduced cup height is a popular alteration. I have short, projected breasts and this is my eternal struggle — cups that fit otherwise are always too tall for me. This is one of the reasons I spent years in the wrong size, because I kept sizing down to find a cup that I actually filled out (even though the fit was wrong / painful).

    Reply
    • Erica
      April 16, 2015 at 11:11 am
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      By far, from speaking with customers and feedback here, reduced cup height seems like a definite for the brand. I’ve never really had issues with cup height in most bras I have tried, but I did like the shape of the cup on the Felicity quite a bit. I don’t think reducing the cup height would impact women like myself who don’t necessarily need it, so it seems like a safe way of improving fit.

      Reply
  • April 12, 2015 at 3:49 pm
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    Hi Erica, I haven’t tried Comexim or Anna Pardal yet but after reading your post couldn’t help but give my 2 cents. It makes me very happy that they actually care so much about customer feedback.

    First, since I did not try their bras I’ll leave a list of the brands I’ve tried and the sizes I wear most often in those brands: Panache/Masquerade/Cleo 28F/FF, Freya 28F, Curvy Kate 28F/FF (wish they did 26 bands though), Ewa Michalak 26FF/G 28F/FF, Lulu Tout 30E/F, Parfait 28FF. My measurements are: bust 91cm and underbust 66cm.

    The issues I most commonly find in bras are:

    – The straps are placed very wide and rub above my armpit, this wouldn’t be such a problem if brands would have bras with different strap placement but since most bras I’ve tried have the straps in the same place that spot is continually being rubbed which has caused me some discoloration on the skin. To have at least some models with different strap placement that I could include in the rotation wound be very helpful.

    – The wires are too wide and too tall under the armpits. I don’t have this problem with all my bras, Masquerade and Ewa Michalak for example have nice wires, the worst offenders are Curvy Kate and Panache.

    – The straps are bulky (Ewa Michalak and Masquerade come to mind again as brands that don’t have this problem). Being a 28F/FF I buy bras from full bust brands but my size isn’t really that big, I’m at the smaller end of the full bust spectrum, so often I find that very wide straps aren’t necessary. Sometimes they are a nice fashion choice for a specific bra, but often they just feel too wide for my small frame. The bras I own with narrower straps are as comfortable if not more, after all most support is coming from the band.

    – The cups are too tall. Most full bust bras offer a lot of coverage even when they aren’t full cup, some times it can be annoying and/or feel bulky. In certain models I really don’t find all that coverage is necessary for good support, others have the problem you mention in the post: they come up too high in the place that meets the strap, this is usually combined with wide straps, so in some bras what actually rubs me above the armpit is still the side of the cup and not yet the straps.

    – Finally I would like to point out that I really don’t find more than two hook-and-eyes are necessary, I can have enough support with two and I’m actually curious to try the new Freya model which only has one, in line with that thought I also find that with most bras the width of the wings is fine, that being said I do love longlines.

    Hope that this comment is helpful even though I haven’t tried Comexim or Anna Pardal nor am I in the higher cups and band sizes.

    Reply
    • Erica
      April 16, 2015 at 11:14 am
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      Ana, I would definitely try either brand at some point because several issues you addressed are not only corrected with the classic shape (like narrow wires), but others can be fixed with alterations (like the straps and cup height). You may never go back to other bras again. 🙂

      Reply
      • April 16, 2015 at 12:19 pm
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        I’ve wanted to try them for a couple of years now, guess I’ve been lazy because with most other brands I already know my preferred sizes and Comexim/Anna Pardal is still new to me, but the more reviews I see the more confident I feel I might order some soon. 🙂

        Reply
  • April 13, 2015 at 2:01 pm
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    I have 2 of the Emmeline in 32GG. (Sized up from my usual 30GG in other bras.) It is the best bra, in terms of comfort and shape that I’ve ever owned, the fabric is awesome, I love the padding, and I get pushed up and in. Although my breasts are wideset, the deep narrow wires, lower sides, and low gore actually work very well for me as I have a petite frame. But there are fit problems that I would love to have corrected. For me it is the lowering of the cup and moving in the straps. I have an empty space at the top of Emmeline where the cup meets the strap probably because I have soft tissue on top. It doesn’t show under clothes, but I do have to readjust a few times a day. Anna Pardal is such an improvement over Panache and Freya don’t work at all, they come up way too high, I get that orange in a glass effect and Freya’s band is way too loose. Also, neither brand push me up and in, so I get an East West look. This happens in Fantasie as well.

    I would love to have the alterations and a light colored choice!

    Reply
    • Erica
      April 16, 2015 at 11:16 am
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      Hi Keri! Thanks for the feedback on the brands. It sounds like you may want to try those alterations on your next bra from them. Also, the Stiff Cappuccino from AP is a great light colored option as is the Ginger from Comexim. Both use a lighter, flat lace on the cup, and the shade is flattering across skin tones (as opposed to that yellow beige favored by Eveden brands).

      Reply
      • April 17, 2015 at 12:16 pm
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        Hi Erica, I can’t wait until these bras are available with the alterations! I’ll definitely be ordering them.

        Reply
  • April 13, 2015 at 11:40 pm
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    I’m going to offer my feedback as someone who’s purchased 1 unaltered padded plunge, 1 unlined balcony bra (with reduced cups? I think so), and 3 padded plunges with reduced cups (definite on these) — all in 36H.

    I definitely find the reduced cup option necessary to providing a good fit for me. I’m happy that they’re considering this as a re-design in my size range.

    To that end, I’m also intrigued by the idea to move the straps inward. While I don’t know that I need that as an alteration (my shoulders are on the broader end of things), I can’t see that it would hurt my fit at all — and it may help me (as well as others) get a better fit.

    I’m glad that there are no plans to re-design the plunge center gore height in my size as it’s just about perfect for me. Raising it — as I found with my attempt at the balconette — would likely mean the gore was sitting on breast tissue. Substantially lower, and I’d expect to start to have some tissue spillage (and my tissue is more average than particularly soft).

    I am, however, a little concerned about plans to add 1-2 hook closures as standard in H+ cups — only because I’m also concerned about that increasing the side wing height. I have fairly high-set breasts, and the low wires and wings are a definite design incentive for me.

    Reply
    • Erica
      April 16, 2015 at 11:42 am
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      Thanks for commenting, Tori! With regard to the strap issue, I never thought I needed the straps moved inward because, like you, I have pretty broad shoulders. However, I was pleasantly surprised by how much I really like this alteration, and I will most likely order all my future ones with it. I unconsciously wear most bra straps at an angle, and the 2cm alteration brings them straight. It also improved the small gaping I get near the top of the strap. You should give it a shot at some point!

      Reply
      • April 17, 2015 at 12:10 am
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        I’m definitely thinking about it. I have half a mind to re-order a Comexim Georgia (it’s my favorite so far) with reduced cups and the altered strap placement. 🙂

        Reply
  • April 14, 2015 at 7:47 pm
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    I would love to chime in here but I wouldn’t know where to begin. I’ve tried 3 or 4 Comexim bras in your store and they just didn’t fit at all. I’ve never had a padded bra in my life and these bras were my first encounter with them. I believe I have very soft tissue, center fullness, and am full on bottom. I believe I require narrow wires. I have yet to find a bra with sufficient lower fullness and I have to adjust my bras about 100x a day. I would like to try some non-padded Comexim/AP bras. More hooks in the back, a higher gore, and straps closer together are things I wish from every bra I’ve tried since I was properly fitted. Also an option to have 4 sets of hooks and eyes to accommodate the inevitable stretching out of the band would be a dream. Thank you for the opportunity. I am incredibly impressed by your customer service. This makes me really want a Comexim bra to work for me… so I can buy it!

    Reply
    • Erica
      April 16, 2015 at 11:46 am
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      Hi Rebeca! Thanks for your feedback here. The narrow wires on Comexim/AP would probably work very well for you, but I know the gore height you prefer is much higher. That’s the only area where I see an issue because the raised gore height is usually only about 3.75″ at max which is lower than Cleo. You would probably do well with a reduced cup in that size too as I seem to recall you had gaping near the strap.

      Reply
  • April 15, 2015 at 5:41 pm
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    I LOVE Anna Pardal bras!!! They’re all I wear anymore. I love how they fit and I love having so many beautiful choices… even my t-shirt bra makes me feel like a movie star (yay cappuccino!).

    One question: will there ever be a strapless bra? That would make my dreams come true!

    Reply
    • Erica
      April 16, 2015 at 11:47 am
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      A strapless bra would be fantastic! I will say that I have been impressed with the Curvy Kate one so far. Of course, it’s mostly been tried by women in the F-G range, but I may try one . . . why I’m not sure since I near wear strapless anything. But, hey it’s for Internet!

      Reply
  • April 16, 2015 at 10:30 am
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    (Disclaimer: I have yet to try on a Comexim or AP bra.)
    THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU!
    As a gal who has yet to find a bra that fits, this just about brings tears to my eyes. Every bra cuts into the armpits. Every bra has wires that go back too far. Most gores are too high, and pretty much all are too wide.
    Which brings me to my constructive comment: NARROW GORES, please, please, please!

    Reply
    • Erica
      April 16, 2015 at 11:48 am
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      Tami, you should definitely check out this brand. They have some of the narrowest underwires (and gores) out there. Plus, they are low on the sides too to avoid cutting into the side. Try them and see how they work for you. 🙂

      Reply
  • April 17, 2015 at 1:01 am
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    I would love to try this brand, but I’m so afraid of sizing! The cleo fits perfectly, 32HH, but it’s so hard to find a pretty moulded bra anywhere in my size. How does the sizing compare to cleo?

    Reply
    • Erica
      April 17, 2015 at 3:38 pm
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      Hi Megan! I have found you usually need one cup and one band up from Panache, so I’d look at a 34HH in Comexim/Anna Pardal. However, that would put you in one of the areas that is needing alterations, so you may benefit from the reduced cup height too. It just depends on your breast shape.

      Reply
      • April 17, 2015 at 10:27 pm
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        Thanks for your help! Do you have to order from the Comexim site? How would 34HH translate to their sizing?

        Reply
        • Erica
          April 18, 2015 at 3:29 pm
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          I believe a 34HH translates to 75L in their sizing, but we accept special orders too. Feel free to use our contact page to discuss this further with me. 🙂

          Reply
  • April 17, 2015 at 7:53 am
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    I wear their Basic bra in 65H and asked to have three hooks instead of two. I’m normally a 30F in general and it’s soooo hard to find a bra with more than two hooks and three is just so much more supportive and comfortable. I love that Comexim did this change for me. I have a very small frame since I am only 5 feet tall, and the straps are not the worst offenders out there as I have experienced way worse chafing, but I’m all for having the straps moved in in H cups and above, because this bra still chafes and restricts me a bit. I am however not for lowering the gore in all 28-32 bands. Quite the contrary, I feel the need for a higher gore. My breasts are not soft so that’s not it. My breasts are dense and full on top and considering my small frame and the narrow underwires (which I need), the low gore just smushes my boobs to the very center and it looks awkward on a body as small as mine. On my small body, it looks better with a more separated, relaxed look, and it also takes some of the pressure off. Having my breast tissue spread out in a larger area does me good in regards to support instead of gathering it all as a big clump of weight at the very center of my chestwall. I believe that I’d achieve a more relaxed, separated look and fit if I could have the gore raised and the cleavage wouldn’t be as massive as it is now.

    Reply
    • Erica
      April 17, 2015 at 3:40 pm
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      Thanks for contributing, Jenny! It’s nice to have so many women in different sizes weighing in with the discussion. You are so right about not finding many bras in 30F with three hooks. I am hard pressed to think of one off the top of my head actually, so the hook customization is pretty awesome.

      Reply
  • April 17, 2015 at 12:05 pm
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    Hi Erica, thanks for this post – excellent work and so needed for all of us who want to understand bra construction and how it affects fit. I love love love Comexim and Anna Pardal bras. I did not think I would ever like to wear padded cups, but that is what I now wear almost exclusively. As someone with narrow set, very projected, soft tissue and center-heavy, tall root breasts, the classic 3-part cup is the best. However, I have to always order raised gore so that I don’t fall out of the cups within a few hours of wear. I find that this almost makes for an in-between cup size. I tried unmodified 75H, 80G and 80H trying to fix this “falling out” issue and found out that 80G band was almost too big, the cup compared to 75H was all of a sudden gaping at the strap attachments and the apex of the cup was too east-west. 80H was so big in the cup that the cup was wrinkling and did not provide any shape for my soft soft breast tissue. I almost gave up on Comexim altogether. Once I tried 75H with raised gore, all of a sudden the breast tissue filled the cups all the way to the top still leaving substantial cleavage – suitable for lower cut tops. No gaping at the strap attachments. It surprised me how a little tweak in one area can completely transform the entire fit. I understand raising the gore is for everyone, but this would be The Adjustment for me and I suspect for most H+ cups (in original Comexim sizing).

    Reply
    • Erica
      April 17, 2015 at 3:43 pm
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      Hi Iveta! Glad you enjoyed the post! The raised gore can really be a beneficial alteration for people. What I am seeing here shows how different everyone’s needs are, and while I think Comexim can certainly make some tweaks to improve the general fit, I think keep alterations on the table will be beneficial, even if it does come with a small fee. There’s something to be said about having a company tailor a piece to suit you!

      Reply
  • April 20, 2015 at 4:34 pm
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    It seems like most of the modifications suggested are centering around the idea of a less extreme plunge, more like a demi bra (to me, means 2cm more central straps, which would help fix the problem of cup height, and adding some fabric going across the body of the cleavage, for containment, rather than a straight line plunge to the gore, while leaving the gore height and the amount of fabric at the gore alone. This would probably require a seam in the top cup section). Based on lots of pictures of women in large cup sizes in Comexim bras, almost no one needs the cups to come up that high by the straps in the plunge, i.e. almost everyone needs the straps moved in. Also, it appears that most large cup sizes fall towards the middle, carry a lot of weight in the straps, and fail to achieve a hard-tack, but going up a cup size does not help because it leaves empty cup volume at the top. If the company starts by pushing the gore flat to the model’s chest, and then asks themselves “Okay, how do we get the bra to do this on its own?”, then they will be on the right track. I can speak from personal experience when I say that simulating moving my straps in, although it causes me some quadboob, actually brings the top of the gore closer to tacking.

    Reply
    • Erica
      April 21, 2015 at 4:40 pm
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      Thanks for this input! I think that’s an interesting thought to press the gore flat and see what needs to be improved. Moving the straps seems to help some women without impacting the rest who didn’t need it, and even those who didn’t necessarily *need* it (like myself), may find they like it better (also like myself). It’s so fascinating to get everyone’s perspective and to have a diverse opinions on how to improve the shape.

      Reply
  • April 20, 2015 at 11:26 pm
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    I have the 42GG Emmeline and love the gore height and the wire height. This is the only bra I have I can wear with lower cut blouses with great forward projection. I personally am not interested in something much lower or a true plunge because my breasts lump together then fall out.

    I would like stronger wires though I get a soft tack on the center gore which can effect the shape of the padded cup. Also I think reduced cup height would give a better fit on the padded cup though I don’t have as large an issue as my roommate does with the extra cup space.

    I worry that raising the gore or adding additional hooks will change my favorite feature of Anna Pardal which is the lower wire height my underarms welcome the break from the poking on Emmeline days. And while I have worn my share of 4 hook bras and that is fine, I don’t particularly like the 2 hook style for my size I like a little more support across my back and off my shoulders.

    Reply
    • Erica
      April 21, 2015 at 4:43 pm
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      Thanks for commenting, Ashley! Like you, I think stronger wires are going to be essential for women in the higher cup sizes, and a proper tack may also help with cup shape issues too. Reducing the cup height is probably unavoidable, but I think they could certainly work with a heavier wire for more support. A soft tack doesn’t really bother me, but I know some women prefer the added security. Again, thanks for all the input!

      Reply
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  • May 13, 2015 at 5:45 pm
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    HI Erica! Right now, I can’t get my gore to tack in a Comexim 70G, and the cups are definitely too small, straps are definitely too wide, but I’ve already tried 65HH in the past, and I was absolutely swimming in the cups, could not breathe in the band, and falling toward the middle.

    So, I’m considering a drastic custom order that I don’t know if anyone’s ever done (reason for posting here): 70H with raised gore, reduced cups, and straps moved in (I know, it’s a lot of variables!). Any thoughts on what this would do to the bra? I’m having trouble committing since it would be no-returns, and this would be my last try with Comexim.

    Reply
    • May 13, 2015 at 5:50 pm
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      I wish for the life of me that I could remember if the 65HH gore tacked, but I don’t remember. The 70G tilts away at the top.

      Reply
    • Erica
      May 14, 2015 at 12:45 pm
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      Hi Erin! Honestly, that’s not all that drastic an order compared to what I have seen. 😀 Have you considered trying a 70H from them? That would give you the breathable band, and then you could use the alterations to improve the fit. I found the reduced cup height helps if there is extra space toward the top of the cup, especially near the strap, and the raised gore can keep breast tissue from falling toward the center. Moving the straps in, in my experience, has yet to create any negative fit issues. Most of the time it actually improves the shape and lift of the cup, so I don’t think that would be a problem. Having tried all these alterations, I can honestly say I really liked the cup height reduction and the strap movement. Any of the Comexim/AP gore heights work fine for me, so it comes down to how much center coverage I want.

      Reply
      • May 14, 2015 at 1:29 pm
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        Thanks Erica! I think I’ll give it a go when I have the courage/stable size. After further thought, it seems my customizations would basically make the plunge into a balconette, “you WILL be a Cleo!” LOL

        Reply
        • Erica
          May 14, 2015 at 2:13 pm
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          Yep, combining the reduced cup with a raised gore tends to make it more of that shape. On the positive side, the brands are considering making this a second style altogether which will be great for women like you. 🙂

          Reply
  • May 17, 2015 at 2:48 pm
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    The first time I read this post I thought the alterations didn’t apply to me since I’m a 36FF/G but, of course, my Comexim size is 80HH so it does. I’m so glad your Comexim ordering post brought me back to it! I have the Mirage biustonosz and definitely noticed a shape mismatch due to my lack of upper fullness – the fabric actually dimples where the seams meet and now I can’t wear this lovely bra since the dimples show through my thin summer t-shirts. I think a reduced cup height would really help with that. Moving the straps in would definitely make me want to try the half-cup as well, but I can’t tell if the cup sizing is consistent between the styles. One thing I’d like to see a Polish bra company do, though I know I’m in the minority, is make a slightly wider gore since I have wide-set breasts. Thanks for the posts!

    Reply
    • Erica
      May 19, 2015 at 4:47 pm
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      Hi Kate! Definitely consider reducing the height and moving the straps. I have seen the dimpling to which you refer, and it’s usually alleviated with those two alterations. In my experience, the half-cups run about cup size small compared to the regular bras, but they do have a slightly wider gore and wires too. That could be worth trying for you too, especially if you can have the strap alteration!

      Reply
      • May 20, 2015 at 4:45 pm
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        Thanks for the insight! I really appreciate the new information on the half-cups. I don’t see any half-cups in my size on the website, let alone a cup larger, but since Comexim is willing to do custom orders maybe I can get one made anyway.

        Reply
        • Erica
          May 21, 2015 at 1:10 pm
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          I know they will make half-cups in slightly larger sizes, but I think they do cap this lower than the classic shape. It’s worth a shot though! 🙂

          Reply
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  • June 11, 2015 at 10:02 pm
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    I have recently starting purchasing from Comexim direct. My first purchase was in 2 different sizes, because I wasn’t sure which would fit best. I chose my size, loved the bra, and emailed Anna of Comexim about some fit issues I was having, and sent her some pictures. Now that we have everything figured out, I have placed another order, 5 bras, all with reduced cups, and whatever little magic trick she is going to perform for the other fit issue. I have to say that Anna is amazingly sweet, and I can tell in my emails with her that she truly wants you to be happy and have a bra that fits you perfectly. I will be a Comexim customer for life, partly because the bras are perfection, partly because they are affordable, even coming from Poland, and mostly because Anna herself has been so helpful and patient with me during this sizing and fitting adventure! If you haven’t tried Comexim, I highly recommend the brand 🙂

    Reply
    • Erica
      June 12, 2015 at 12:02 pm
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      Hi Rachel! Thanks for the feedback, and I am glad to hear you are a new fan of such a wonderful lingerie brand. 🙂

      Reply
      • June 15, 2015 at 2:11 am
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        I don’t remember if this has been brought up before, but a seamless bra would be amazing! They could still do their 3 part cup which provides the amazing shape, but the a single piece of fabric or lace to cover the cup and help hide the seams would be fantastic. I know a lot of girls who are afraid to try Comexim because they afraid the seams will show, and would prefer to stick with ill-fitting seamless bras instead. I’m trying to recruit them though 😉

        Reply
        • Erica
          June 16, 2015 at 4:21 pm
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          Hi Rachel! A seamless bra would be nice for those women who want something basic or who (like most of my customers) like in warm climates where thin knits reign supreme. I like the idea of keeping the 3-part cup but using a smoothing exterior fabric!

          Reply
  • June 15, 2015 at 12:04 pm
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    I just received my first AP from Sophisticated Pair 🙂
    I *think* the lower cups and wires fit great. The upper cups aren’t full, however, and the straps are too far out for me. The nipple seems to be in the right place, so I think the cups are the right size if only they had a lowered top and straps that were farther in.
    Thank you SO much for your commitment to good fit. You’re developing a customer for life and a walking advertisement 🙂

    Reply
    • June 15, 2015 at 12:26 pm
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      I mistakenly implied that my cups were already lowered. They are not. When I said “lower cup,” what I meant was the lower half of the full-sized cup.

      Reply
    • Erica
      June 16, 2015 at 4:22 pm
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      Hi Tami! Thanks for sharing your experiences here. 🙂 I think it’s important to give as much feedback as possible, and I agree that for you a reduced cup and a strap placement adjustment should work well. 🙂

      Reply
  • July 21, 2016 at 3:45 am
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    Hi! I don’t mean to resurrect and old post but I found this guide via ABTF. I am considering ordering a Comexim because my shape is so….funky? Off the rack bras just don’t work on me very well. I measure a UK 38G, sometimes a FF depending on the cup shape. I am REALLY short waisted. My roots are only about 2in below my armpits! Generally I’m a FoB omega shape with lots of armpit flesh. I’m also really close set with lots of immediate projection. Sitting here now without a bra, I have cleavage.

    I’ve searched ABTF and bratabase for the perfect bra. Closest I’ve come is a toss-up between a Fayreform Lace Romance, Panache Idina or Freya Gem. Fayreform has the best shape, Idina has the best gore height, and Gem didn’t murder my armpits. The Fayreform does poke me in the gore and armpit, sadly, after long daily wear. The Idina isn’t nearly deep enough and the wires are really wide, so they don’t poke but they’re halfway around my sides. The Gem is comfy but it’s practically flat at the gore, so it doesn’t tack at all.

    Ok so here’s my thoughts on ordering:

    *According to the size chart and I measurements I should be a 90G. That doesn’t sound right as I’ve seen so many needed to go up at least 1 cup size. I have heard the bands are tight as well, but I had an EM that was a 90 and the band was way too loose. Maybe a 85HH?
    *Reduced gore and cups would be a must
    *Can they reduce the wing? I see making the wing bigger but I have the opposite issue
    *What cup shape do you suggest?

    Thank you for reading!

    Reply
    • Erica
      July 21, 2016 at 10:24 am
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      Hi Sarah! If you are wearing a UK 38G, I would consider ordering the 40G (90HH) in the classic up or a 40GG (90J) in the half-cup. I think a 90G is going to be way too small unless you are wearing US 38G cups. I’ve found that Comexim bands do typically run tight, but there have been some instances where they were more true to size. I think the older models as well as ones which use the smooth satin fabric on the cups are more prone to stretching. The ones with lace or heavy texture on the wings have less innate stretch from what we have seen. If you’re unsure, you can always order the 85 and use an extender. They can lower the wing too, but that is an alteration we see a lot less because the wing height is already lower than most brands. If you have a lot of side tissue, I worry that lowering the wing may not encapsulate everything. Furthermore, you may want to stick with the classic plunge because the base of the cup is deeper. The shape of the half-cup is wider and shallower than the plunge, so I worry you may get extra space at the bottom. If you do order the half-cup, make sure to ask for the 3-section half-cup as this seems to have the most projection. You can have this shape lowered too, but it’s really the shallowness at the bottom that worries me based on the information you provided. I hope this helps!

      Reply
      • July 21, 2016 at 2:45 pm
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        This helps a lot! Thank you so much.

        Reply
    • July 21, 2016 at 5:42 pm
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      Hey Sarah,

      I was wondering if you had tried the Sculptresse Chi Chi? Its based on the Panache Jasmine frame but is cut a little lower and the basic color version has almost no extra band under the cup. It also has an extra lining in the wing that I think helps distribute the weight across the middle better. Anyway I wear a 40GG and have close set breasts and its my fav bra currently. Not to take us further off topic just thought I would add my 2 cents!

      Reply
      • July 21, 2016 at 6:05 pm
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        I have not but I will look for one and give it a try!

        Reply
  • August 6, 2017 at 2:27 am
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    I am so sorry to post on a post from 2015 and you may not even see this but I recently tried a comexim ingrid in a 32KK and the wires fit perfectly as did the band but I had gapping at the top of the cups. I did order a 32K to try do you think that will work? Thank you.

    Reply
    • Erica
      August 8, 2017 at 1:29 pm
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      Hi Lianne! The 32K may work, but you might also need to look at doing the 32KK with the reduced cup too. Sometimes the gaping at the top is more a function of the cup height than the size. If the 32K is too small, try ordering the KK with the reduced cup instead. 🙂

      Reply
      • August 12, 2017 at 11:30 pm
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        Thank you so much for responding I appreciate it 🙂

        Reply

What are your thoughts?